Mastering the Art of Technology: Appreciating Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Classic Collection 7327 Perpetual Calendar.

UncategorizedLeave a Comment on Mastering the Art of Technology: Appreciating Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Classic Collection 7327 Perpetual Calendar.

Mastering the Art of Technology: Appreciating Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Classic Collection 7327 Perpetual Calendar.

[Watch Review] Every time I think of complicated function watches, I always think of Breguet. In fact, not only complicated functions, but also many inventions and innovations that have revolutionized the watch industry cannot be mentioned without mentioning Breguet. For example, the well-known “tourbillon” and “double seconds precision timer” (considered the precursor of modern chronographs). In 1780, the founder of the brand, Abraham-Louis Breguet, successfully created the first “self-winding watch” (initially placed on a pocket watch) after extensive and repeated experiments, perfecting the automatic winding system. After that, Breguet combined this major innovation with calendar mechanisms and continuously expanded the complexity of functions and the artistic value of watches.

In 2023, Breguet launched two new Classique Classic series 7327 perpetual calendar watches. In fact, as early as 2004, the Breguet Classic series had introduced the 5327 perpetual calendar watch, which had a case made of platinum or rose gold. In addition to the perpetual calendar function, the watch was also equipped with moon phase and power reserve display. The new 7327 perpetual calendar inherits the “nobility” of its predecessor, with two styles made of 18K white gold and 18K rose gold respectively. Recently, I got the platinum version. Let’s take a look at this watch through live shots and see how Breguet combines technology and art.

Watch live shots:

The new 7327 perpetual calendar watch has a diameter of 39mm and a thickness of 9.13mm, which is similar in overall proportion to its predecessor, with a moderate size and thickness.

(Left 1/2: Classic series 5327 perpetual calendar; Right 1/2: New Classic series 7327 perpetual calendar)

On the Classic series perpetual calendar watch, you can see Breguet’s original designs such as Breguet hands and guilloché engraved patterns. The new 7327 perpetual calendar is no exception, but the dial design has changed compared to the previous 5327: based on the perpetual calendar, the moon phase display is retained, but the power reserve display is removed. The shape of the function display windows has also been adjusted. In my opinion, the dial of the new 7327 perpetual calendar is wider and younger after the reinterpretation.

The silver-gold dial is decorated with a “Paris nail” guilloché engraved pattern, and the central hands indicate hours and minutes with traditional blue-steel Breguet hands.

(From right to left: day display, date display, year display)

(Red letter “B” represents a leap year)

The day, date, and leap year displays are arranged from right to left at the bottom of the dial. The leap year display changes the fourth year to the letter “B,” which means leap year in German. The letter is also marked in red to highlight it.

(A quarter arc displays the month)
The month is located between 10 o’clock and 11 o’clock. The previous generation 5327 perpetual calendar had a power reserve display in this position, but the new 7327 perpetual calendar has removed the power reserve display and placed the month independently in this position for clearer reading and a more balanced dial layout. The month hand has a retrograde function. After indicating the complete month from left to right, it can automatically jump back to the leftmost position (January, letter “J”).

The moon phase display is still located between 1 o’clock and 2 o’clock, but the moon phase disc is a brand new design. In order to echo the texture of the real moon, craftsmen create an uneven surface through hand-hammering. The sky is made of blue lacquer, and the two stars are replaced with glitter, creating the appearance of a night sky filled with stars. The updated moon phase disc emphasizes authenticity.

There are two Breguet hidden signatures between 11 o’clock and 12 o’clock, and between 12 o’clock and 1 o’clock.

Although the watch has complex functions, the entire dial is very smooth and easy to read. Adjusting various functions is not complicated either. The time is set using the crown, while the other function adjusters are located on the outside of the case. To make it easier to understand, we have made an illustration that you can save for reference if you are interested in or about to own this watch!

Speaking of the perpetual calendar function of the watch, we say it is a superb craftsmanship because it can accurately display the date and automatically recognize the lengths of months and leap years. To achieve this function, the movement needs to have a mechanical “memory” of four years (equivalent to 1461 days). The movement is the core of this superb craft.

The new 7327 perpetual calendar watch is equipped with the 502.3.P movement, which is automatic winding and has a thickness of only 4.5mm, making it one of Breguet’s thinnest movements.

The first impression that this movement gives me is beauty, a beauty that has withstood the test of time. The gold automatic rotor is decorated with hand-engraved circular “Geneva waves,” echoing the guilloché engraved pattern on the dial. The bridges are decorated with Geneva stripes and chamfered. The outer edge of the case back is decorated with a wave pattern. These are just the visible parts.

In the unseen places, there are also exquisite decorative finishes.

Breguet movements begin with beauty but do not end there.

(Equipped with two shock absorbers)

The 502.3.P automatic winding movement is equipped with a silicon hairspring and a silicon escapement fork, increasing the accuracy of timekeeping. It provides a 45-hour power reserve. In addition, Breguet also uses two shock absorbers on the 502 movement to enhance the watch’s resistance to external forces. It is worth mentioning that the source of modern watch shock absorbers can be traced back to Breguet. In 1790, Mr. Breguet introduced the parachute shock absorber, which is considered the precursor of all shock absorbers that came afterwards.

The watch is paired with a blue leather strap, and the white gold folding clasp has the Breguet logo. The official price of the watch is 614,500 RMB.

In conclusion, for Abraham-Louis Breguet, he focused all his attention on the measurement of time, thus establishing, rewriting, and leaving many standards in the watchmaking industry, which continue to this day. I think this is a remarkable aspect of Breguet. As for the Breguet brand itself, it naturally has strict technical considerations and aesthetic criteria.

For this new Classic series 7327 perpetual calendar watch, all seven signature elements of the brand are reflected: guilloché engraving, Breguet numerals, Breguet hands, hidden signatures, individual numbering, coin edge, and welded lugs. I once asked a senior watch media person about his impression of Breguet, and his answer was: Breguet is one of the few high-end watch brands that insist on using modern technology to restore traditional beauty. (Photo/Text by Zhang Dalu)

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Back To Top