[Clock Technology] What is Longines?

Longines is one of the three “pillars” of the Swatch Group (the other two being Omega and Blancpain) and is the 7th best-selling watch in the world (2022 data). More importantly, Longines is a brand that allows you to spend less and get more luxury watches.

Longines Classic Reprint Series Flagship Moon Phase

Whenever I see the exquisite watches from Longines, I always feel compelled to share them with you. Longines can always surprise us with a price range of 10,000 to 20,000 RMB. For example, this Longines Classic Reprint Series Flagship Moon Phase has a suggested retail price of 23,100 RMB. It not only has the appearance you see, but also features enamel and gold carving.

Longines Classic Reprint Series Flagship Moon Phase, with gold carving and enamel decoration on the case back.

Here are the basic details of this watch: Longines Classic Reprint Flagship Moon Phase, stainless steel case, 38.5mm in size, 12.4mm thick, with a suggested retail price of 23,100 RMB. It is available in three color options: silver dial, beige dial, and blue dial.

Longines Classic Reprint Series Flagship Moon Phase, available in three colors.

The appearance of this watch is “similar” to Jaeger-LeCoultre and Patek Philippe.
Let’s not talk about anything else, the appearance of the Longines Classic Reprint Flagship Moon Phase is very similar to Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Moon Phase and Patek Philippe 5396. All three watches have the moon phase sub-dial at 6 o’clock, with a calendar rim around the moon phase (Patek Philippe 5396 has a 24-hour rim). They use dauphine hands, three-dimensional hour markers, and have a symmetrical dial design. Although Longines is much cheaper than Patek Philippe and Jaeger-LeCoultre, in terms of this watch alone, the effect presented by the Longines Classic Reprint Flagship Moon Phase is stunning. After all, with over 190 years of history (established in 1832), Longines’ time span even surpasses that of Patek Philippe and Jaeger-LeCoultre.

Longines Classic Reprint Series Flagship Moon Phase, white dial

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Moon Phase (left) and Patek Philippe 5396 (right)

Longines first introduced the Flagship series in 1957. From the military watches produced in the 1960s, you can see that this Classic Reprint Flagship Moon Phase watch incorporates the characteristics of antique Longines watches, redesigned according to modern aesthetics, and added a moon phase complication. The dial of the Longines Classic Reprint Flagship Moon Phase has a noticeable uplift effect, with the dial rising from the periphery to the center. This design is very common in antique watches, including the antique Longines military watches. The style of the hour markers, scales, and hands on the dial continues the style of antique Longines watches, with the only difference being the addition of luminescent coating on the dauphine hands. In terms of dial decoration details, the Longines Classic Reprint Flagship Moon Phase has a dense sunray decoration on the dial, and a record-like decoration on the moon phase sub-dial.

Gold-plated Longines military watch produced in the 1960s

Details of the dial of the Longines Classic Reprint Series Flagship Moon Phase watch

Under the light, the polished hands, hour markers, and rich dial decoration create multiple halos on the raised dial, combining retro style with a sense of luxury.

Details of the dial of the Longines Classic Reprint Series Flagship Moon Phase watch

Enamel gold navel is back.
Apart from its appearance, another highlight of the Longines Classic Reprint Flagship Moon Phase is the “gold navel”. As experienced watch enthusiasts know, some steel watches, including antique watches from over a decade ago, have a gold plate on the case back, either engraved with the brand logo or with special patterns as decorations to increase the added value of the watch. The “gold navel” can be seen on brands such as Omega, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and Longines, especially in the past, but it has become rare on modern watches.
Longines Classic Reprint Flagship Moon Phase is true to its vintage theme and has a “gold navel”. The “gold navel” on the Classic Reprint Flagship Moon Phase is engraved with a sailboat in gold and a blue enamel sea. The sailboat carving is quite delicate, and with the glassy luster of the enamel, the effect is very good. The most important thing is that at a price of just over 20,000 RMB, with gold and enamel, what more could you ask for? Besides Longines, which other brand in the same category can provide such a configuration?

Details of the case back of the Longines Classic Reprint Series Flagship Moon Phase watch: gold carving and enamel gold navel.

Underneath the “gold navel” is a screw-in case back, but please note that it is only water-resistant to 30 meters. The Longines Classic Reprint Flagship Moon Phase is powered by the Longines L899 automatic movement, which is actually the Longines L888 automatic movement with a moon phase module added. The L888/L899 movement is an exclusive movement provided by the Swatch Group’s ETA movement factory for Longines. The movement features are comparable to Omega, with a silicon balance spring, double T shock absorbers, a frequency of 25,200 beats per hour, a power reserve of 72 hours, and it maintains Longines’ excellent decorative standards. In the same category, it is definitely at the “top” level.

Details of the “gold navel”.

Compact size suitable for most watch enthusiasts.
The Longines Classic Reprint Flagship Moon Phase measures 38.5mm in diameter and is 12.4mm thick. In the past, vintage military watches were sized at 34mm, and the current 38.5mm size is still considered compact by today’s standards. As a watch that emphasizes retro and formal styles, 38.5mm is very suitable. As for the thickness of 12.4mm, some enthusiasts might find it a bit thick, mainly because the addition of the moon phase complication and the raised dial design add some thickness. However, I have worn this watch for a while and found it to be comfortable on the wrist without any issues regarding the size and thickness.

Longines Classic Reprint Series Flagship Moon Phase

In terms of case finishing, the Classic Reprint Flagship Moon Phase has a more “tough” style compared to the polished finish of the Longines Master collection (which is also aimed at formal wear). Therefore, this watch has a more casual feel when worn. In terms of the strap, Longines provides an alligator leather strap for this watch, with different dial colors matched with different colors of alligator leather straps, which adds a touch of luxury.

Side view of the case with brushed finish.

Longines is just as trustworthy as Blancpain. Apart from the personal aesthetic factor, Longines is top-notch in terms of the watch’s historical continuity, design, features, movement performance, movement decoration, and even surpasses some higher-end luxury watches in some aspects. With a price range of around 20,000 RMB, the Longines Classic Reprint Flagship Moon Phase, equipped with a single L888/L899 movement, not only surpasses many watches in the same category that use generic movements but also has better movement decoration than some higher-positioned luxury watches. It is equipped with enamel and gold “navel”. How can you say that Longines is not trustworthy? (Image/Text Yan Danping)